Knife care

Knife care

A genuine Laguiole knife made in the ancestral fashion is an every day companion. It carries a lifetime guarantee, for normal use



Handle care

The principle :
A folding knife has to be wiped, never washed !

- horn tip, horn, stag horn and ivory handles
Those are natural materials. Avoid wetting the horn handle : it could end up splitted.
Horn is composed of keratin like feathers and nails. That is why it offers a great variety ok colours and that this material requires minimum care.

- French or exotic wood handles
Wood handles withstand cold water. Anyway, they still have to be considered as fragile materials.
Woods : If your knife handle becomes dry or/and dull, apply olive oil with a soft cloth on it.

- Aluminium, stainless steel and acrylic handles
Those materials are very solid and thus recommended for people with an untidy character or which hobby is fishing. The aluminium, stainless steel and acrylic handles resist to water as well as to being wet.
In any case, they have to be wiped after use. The mechanism needs to be cared of.
We advise against dish-washing folding knives.

For : Ivory, Horn, Bone and Antler

Blade care

- Carbon steel blade
This is the traditional blade which becomes grey with use. This is a natural oxidation which can evolve into rust in case of lack of care.
It has to be cleaned with a wet cloth and immediately dry it (in the old days the peasants did not wash their knife blade but wiped it on their work trousers).
Avoid using scotch Brite, it scratches the blade.

To render the blade the colour it had when you purchased it you can use products you find in hardware shops. Otherwise, you can dip a cork in cold wood ashes and wipe the blade with elbow grease... Then the blade will be clean again until the next acid food you cut !

- Stainless steel blade (reference number 12C27)
Contrary to the traditional blade which blackens, stainless steel blades remains clean whatever use you make of them. 12C27 stainless steel is an up-market steel. It is easy to grind wherever by professionals or by private individuals.
After use wash the blade with a wet cloth and wipe it. Avoid using scotch Brite, it scratches the blade.

- Damascus blade
In case of regular use, wash it after every use to keep its moiré look. If you do not use your knife for a long time, grease your blade to avoid any deterioration in its beauty. A neutral grease such as the silicon grease used in plumbing is preferable.
Damascus blades care is identical to the other blade's. In order to clean it, wash the blade with a wet cloth and wipe it. Avoid using scotch Brite, it scratches the blade.

Blade sharpening

There are 2 different operations :
- honing to restore the edge
- grinding to maintain the edge

During both operation you need to keep a 20-30° angle (a blade must not be scratched!)
Press hard and regularly (to make swift moves does not improve the quality of the sharpening it only increases the risks to cut oneself or scratch the blade,...!)
Those operations can be made in a few minutes but need some exercise. Before you sharpening your brand new Laguiole knife, try to practice with an old knife.

- Honing
The honing is made on a whetstone or an electric grindstone (to be perfectly round).
Before use, the whetstone has to be drowned in water for about ten minutes. A coarse-grained stone is used for gardening tools and a medium-grained stone for knives.

Make a movement as if you wished to cut a slice out of the stone (keeping the same angle). Do this movement again alternating one size of the blade with the other. Wet the stone regularly during the grinding.

Fixing the stone on a workbench using two clamps will free both hands and make the honing easier (contrary to what is shown on the picture above).

- Grinding
The grinding is made with a magnetized steel with a 25cm long bit and a hilt. Whether it is round, oval or flat, to will do the same movements.

the movement is identical to the one with the whetstone. Going from the top of the bit with the bottom of the knife's blade do as if you wished to cut the steel towards the hilt. Do this movement again alternating one size of the blade with the other.

Mechanism care

It is necessary to oil regularly the moving parts of any folding knife as much as it is for a car engine. It will prevent it from a premature wear.

You can use a multi-use oil or a WD 40 oil. The blade folded, put a oil drop between the blade and the string at the blade axle. Open and close the blade, then wipe surplus oil.

Bolsters care

- massive brass bolsters
To leave a Laguiole knife in a leather sheath for an extended period of time without using the knife will oxide brass bolsters. It is simply due to the chemical agents used in the tanning process.
To give the oxidized brass bolsters their original shine, wet a mop with some ouator or Mirror and elbow grease will do the rest!

- stainless steel bolsters
No care is needed for knives with stainless steel bolsters.

- for any knife
Avoid having your knife in your pocket along with other metallic objects such as keys, coins... It might scratch the handle and the metallic parts of your knife

Laguiole folding knives use

Like any othjer knife a Laguiole folding knife is made TO CUT.

A knife is not a tool made for :
- screwing
- being used as a lever
- being used as an oyster-knife
- sculpting
- being used as an awl or a punch
- being used as a throwing knife

Can we click the blade shut without damaging its cutting edge ?
The Laguiole knife has got a slip-joint (it means the blade is half-blocked.) When you fold the blade, on its course the string works to lead and maintain the blade into the handle. In former days in farms, the granddad used to click the blade to mean the meal was over.
Nowadays modern cutlery allows to have one's knife clicking without spoiling its sharp edge. On some of our models of knives of the Prestige range or Collection range the springs have got a blade stop. The blade bottom shuts on a stop under the bee (it acts like a brake.) the cutting edge is entirely protected!
For the 3 pieces knife (with the blade, the corkscrew and the punch), the blade must always be accompanied.

A few remarks about Laguiole table cutlery

All table cutlery items have stainless steel blades and handle tops.
Stainless steel blades remain shiny whatever use you have.

We advise you to hand-wash your table knives in order to keep the edge cutting for a long time :
- we recommend to wash the blade of your knives with a wet cloth and to mop it afterwards after each use if possible.
- avoid any abrasive such as powders, scrubbing cloth..., it will scratch to blade.

For dish-washers, a few precautions have to be taken :
- avoid using too much soap
- do not wash with other ordinary items at the same time in your dish-washer (marmalade jar top...,)
- make sure there is enough rinsing product.
- up-range stainless-steel and acrylic handles only can resist to chemicals and high washing-machines temperatures.

In case of persistent stains on your knife blades, we recommend the use of specific products on a cloth (a few examples : Ouator, Hagerty Inox,...). Do not forget to rinse and wipe the cutlery after washing it.

Beware : only a few types of handles can resist to dish-washers or can be dipped in water. See the Authenticity Certificate to know if the handles can go into the dish-washer.

Ivory, Horn, Bone and Antler

Ivory, bone, horn, and antler have been used to craft objects that run the gamut from everyday household items to intricate jewelry, carvings, and statues. The detailed scrimshaw done by 18th-century sailors is just one of many beautiful examples. With proper care these objects can last and be enjoyed for many years.

Ivory is a specialized form of tooth. The most common source is elephant tusk although other mammalian tusks (e.g. walrus, sperm whale tooth, and narwhal) have been used. A synthetic "ivory" was produced from cellulose nitrate in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Called "French" or "India" ivory, it resembles the real thing but its structure breaks down over time.

Bone looks similar to ivory but it is lighter in weight and usually not as white. A polished bone surface usually has small pits and what appears to be a lightly scratched surface; these are the exposed "tunnels" that permeate the bone.

Antler is a specialized form of bone that often has a rough textured surface.

Horn is made up of the same material found in fingernails or hooves.

Causes of Damage
Contact with the natural oils of skin or exposure to coloured materials can result in staining or darkening of ivory and bone. Over time, exposure to the environment can also produce some darkening in ivory which can be considered a patina.

Exposure to light can bleach ivory.

Insects can damage horn.

Extreme or rapid fluctuations in temperature and humidity cause small changes in dimensions of ivory, horn, bone, and antler, which can lead to cracking.

Liquids such as cleaning solution or even water can also cause damage.

Ensure that your hands are clean and dry before handling ivory, bone, horn, and antler.

Safeguard items from extreme or rapid changes in temperature or humidity; a display case will provide some protection against environmental fluctuations, dirt, and dust. Do not display ivory, bone, horn, and antler in direct sunlight, under bright lights, near heat or air-conditioning units, or near windows and exterior walls.

When storing items, wrap them in unbuffered, acid-free tissue paper or unbleached muslin and then place them in a sealed polyethylene bag (e.g. Ziploc freezer bag).

Do not use rubber-based materials (which can cause yellowing) to cushion items made of ivory.

A light dusting with a soft brush is often all that is needed to clean ivory, bone, horn, and antler objects. Ivory and horn that are in good condition (i.e. with a smooth, glossy surface) and have no applied decoration can be cleaned with a little water. Use a cotton swab (e.g. Q-tip), barely dampened, and dry the object immediately with another cotton swab or soft tissue. Do not attempt to clean porous bone or antler this way without first consulting a conservator. Do not use water on any object that is cracked or otherwise damaged. Never soak objects.

The cleaning and repair of ivory, bone, horn, and antler is a delicate procedure. If an object is very dirty or damaged, consult a professional conservator




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